Cordless drills: pick the battery platform first, then the drill

The battery system is the real purchase; 12 V vs. 18/20 V, drill vs. driver vs. hammer drill, and what a brushless motor buys you.

You aren't buying a drill; you're joining a battery platform. Every later tool — driver, saw, light, vacuum — uses the same packs, so choose the platform you can live with and buy the drill as a kit with two batteries.

Voltage class

• 12 V: light, compact, enough for furniture, cabinetry, most household jobs. Easiest overhead.
• 18/20 V (same thing; 20 V is the "max" marketing number): decks, framing, big holes, mixing. Heavier, and the batteries cost more.

Drill, driver, or hammer drill

• Drill/driver: the one to own first. Chuck holds bits, clutch prevents over-driving screws.
• Impact driver: hex collet, drives long screws and lag bolts without wrist twist; loud. The second tool to add.
• Hammer drill: a drill/driver with a hammer mode for masonry. Only if you'll drill into concrete or brick more than once a year.

What to check

• Brushless motor — longer runtime, more torque, and worth it on anything you'll use often.
• Two batteries in the kit and the amp-hour rating (2 Ah is light, 4–5 Ah is all-day).
• Chuck: 1/2-inch metal chuck on 18 V; 3/8-inch is fine on 12 V.
• Weight with battery, not bare.
• Clutch settings and a work light that doesn't cast the chuck's shadow on the screw.

Ignore

Peak torque numbers between brands (measured differently), the number of accessories in the case, and "Bluetooth" on a hand tool.

Disclosure: DealFinder by Cottontail earns affiliate commissions on some purchases made through links on this site and through its assistant tools. Commissions never affect ranking or the price you pay.